Everyone has its bad days, and day 7 of New York Fall Fashion week was probably everyone’s bad day. Except a few highlights, all the collections felt either horrible or poor. And by this mean I can share my highest disappointment after watching Proenza Schouler’s collection.
Michael Kors
A classic Michael Kors, luxurious and classy with his evident signature style highly inspired from sportwear. It was not a bad collection, instead it was really dull. Extensive use of camel color, and a boring jet-setter look that reminded me of a Gucci or Versace line. Long coats with large shoulders and hideous pants were to forget. Only a few pieces were noticeable enough to talk about. The extravagant use of fur and scarves stood out, the silver-fox hoodied coat looked amazing and that fur skirt was blatantly extravagant and luxurious to attract lots of UES socialites. Otherwise I felt a Ralph Lauren aura surrounding that show in my opinion.
Anna Sui
There are very few designers like Anna Sui who would never get you tired to watch their collection even though each year it feels the same. By essence, Anna Sui is just the perfect designer for boho and folk inspired clothing, and probably no one does it better than her. This year, the collection was heavily devoted to the Arts and Crafts movement, designing pieces with lots of embroideries and fantastic patterns. With a cult of vintage, that collection had the perfect balance between the past and future of the boho-look Anna Sui has been breathing for so long. I loved the hippie look Agyness was wearing, the jacquard patterns on her tights are fabulous. The sequined vintage flapper dress on Natasha Poly is stunning and once again her sparkling tights were speechless. Just to tell you the styling in this show was up to perfection.
Proenza Schouler
The worst collection the design duo has shown. A classic PS collection heavily influenced by snow sportwear with lots of graphics, knit sweaters spiced up with a preppy vibe. Nothing in the collection really stood out neither the concept was actually inspired. Some of the items were just a “no no”, pleated skirts and thigh-high tights were too trashy, and the use of fur in this collection was a disgrace to elegance. It’s a season that turned me off and to forget. Gosh! S/S 2010 and P-F 2010 were so much better…
American Western was Derek Lam’s inspiration in his Fall 2010 collection, highly chic and fun to wear. Derek made sure the collection stays retail-ready and will certainly seduce all the women, and make the designer their favorites for the upcoming Fall. Models were walking down the runway in chic cowgirl attires with long brown vintage leather coats and cowboy boots, fur was obviously part of the show and I pretty much appreciated the black cardigan with a sleeveless fur jacket on top. A colorful collection mixing black with bright colors without killing the chicness imposed by the designer. The collection was inspired and fun to watch as the items were very well styled and structured to make sure it flatters the silhouette during Winter. Some of the fringed belts looked funny, but this is just a detail.
Vera Wang
Vera Wang knows to create the perfect NYC-urban dress “a la Sex and The City”, sophisticated and chic using lots of elegant fabrics like tulle, chiffon, fur or satin. The Fall 2010 collection is yet a stunning collection with a twist of minimalism I’ve never seen in the past. Silhouettes were sharp and tailored like Jil Sander, but Vera Wang still has added a lot of details like the chiffon covering the shoulders of most of the jackets, a black high-waisted pant with a cute tie bow and one-shoulder white voile top accessorized with a pearl necklace. The sleeveless fur jacket will be among the chic New Yorkers’ favorites. The use of black tulle was definitely my highlight, adding a lot of transparencies to the outfits, keeping it chic like the bustier dress or the mini-skirt (for whom is not afraid to reveal more than the usual). I had never been a fan of Vera Wang, but this collection stood out for its simplicity and elegance, loved the styling and the embroidered tulles with pearls. Boots were quite disturbing and thought they were not fitting this collection.
Rodarte
There was an imaginary and serene atmosphere at Rodarte. Giant neon blue columns, confettis were spread on the concrete while a set of candles was being lighten where the models come out. And then the models appeared in, what a I felt, a dreamy and earthy collection made of patchworks of stripes, tulles, laces and wraps. The handcrafted and cutting-edge enveloped this romantic yet angelic concept. All the models were looking like goddesses draped in floral prints, fringed skirts, embroidered lace leggings and knit wraps. The dreamworld ended with 4 outstanding (brides) white dresses and all the models walking together in the dark while there outfits were glowing like fireflies. As opposed to the previous season, this collection brings a more positive and enchanting vibe. The crocheted laces that enveloped the models stood out however the fringed skirts were not my cup of tea.
Videos of the Rodarte F/W 2010 NY Fashion Show (might slow to watch since YouTube is currently overloaded…)
By watching again and again the show yesterday, you can still feel that crazy and heavy atmosphere with all the eyes of the public looking at this giant box in the back of the room. Like little kids impatient to unwrap a Christmas gift in the sense that everyone in the audience and in the world (the one watching online) have been expecting this show since the designer’s announcement.
After last season’s catastrophe MJ, MbyMJ and Louis Vuitton, I was highly convinced this show won’t be much better. But in 20 years of experience, Marc Jacobs probably offered his best collection ever in this Fall Winter 2010 Fashion Week. Praised by the tweeters and the Press, the collection was a mix of what does best in all proportions and what people want to buy.The serene and romantic vibe was there with lots of soft and pastel colors. And the typical vintage feel was back with some amazing gowns and encrusted bows. I particularly loved the genius plastic coats that looked so disconnected but so great, revealing sequins copper dresses or a long gown.
Nothing new you would say, but I’d prefer to see him doing what does the best: pure wearable, affordable and timeless clothes.
Jill Stuart
Not an usual of the designer, Jill Stuart felt the need of a change. This collection is a proof you can change your style without overdoing it, she metamorphosed her line from the girly girl print addict to a downtown grunge-chic. Probably highly inspired by Balmain, lots of cute and asymmetrical one-shoulder short dresses. I saw lots of strong boyfriend chic blazers and edgy separates, layering leopard dress and striped tweed jacket. Oversized and extended shoulders were strong highlights of the collection. The clothing outfit was nothing but too sexy.
Zac Posen
Zac Posen’s Fall 2010 collection was an explosion of colors mixing soft and bright colors on nice wearable suits, fur coats or shiny tights. Everything but black. Colorful and girlie all mixed in a 40’s something inspired collection including large pant suits, oversized fur coats, cuffs, shirts and to nice evening and sexy cocktail dresses with an uptown beat. Primarly, a collection that is way better than last season. But sadly disappointed by its use of velvet just really out of contest in the styling. And lastly, the fur shoes were hideous, except the latter, a good collection made for party people.
Here is the first video of Marc Jacobs’ Fall 2010 collection for the ones who can’t wait until tomorrow’s highlights Clean, serene, sophisticated and Sofia Coppola – this is Marc Jacobs’ A-Game.
Day 4 of this New York Fashion Week was definitely full of surprises. There were a lot of very well executed and inspired collections like the Betsey Johnson’s show that I found fun, hilarious and sassy. I have to admit the western-style and the McQueen tribute totally caught my attention. DKNY was a good follow-up from last season, lots of blocked colors on dresses and long coats – very elegant (a tiny bit preppy) and soft collection. There was something naughty at Philosophy by Alberta Ferretti with the schoolgirl look concept – laces, transparent tulles, high starched collars and mini skirts. Elegant Beckham-esque dresses at Victoria Beckham, simple, sexy and flattering, a very good collection of basics. The disappointment was Thakoon, I love this guy but the collection was just chaotic. I guess the path is not always free of obstacles. And loved the Yamamoto Valentine’s Day word of misery on his tees.
Diane von Furstenberg
There was definitely a breeze of change in this DVF’s Fall 2010 show. Yesterday was DVF’s creative Director Nathan Jenden’s last show. Second, I’ve never seen man’s suits in a DVF show. Third, that was such a youthful and playful line.
And it all started with a double-breasted jacket heavily embroidered with chiffon flowers and a cuffed pant. That was the statement of the collection: the best is in the details. I’ve never been a huge fan of the classic DVF, and that collection was way beyond my expectations. Full of surprises, the clothes were colorful and screamed “buy me”. The dresses were short, perfect for prints and sequins (phew) addicts. Even though I’m sick of seeing sequins every night in NY, I have to admit some of those dresses are very original. Certainly, you will see a younger crowd at the DVF store in Meatpacking. I liked the details, lots of details and textures, you could tell the hard work done on some of the black dresses embellished with glitters and flowers. The heavy use of black was also a statement in this collection, a darker and more luxurious-like collection (and accessible) on the edge of the downtown edginess. On the side note, I have to admit that there is a very blurry line between a F/W and S/S collection. I’d hardly believe DVF’s clientele would wear these mini-dresses even at 20 degrees in NYC.
Hervé Léger
“You have to create more and more. It’s a challenge, but we love it.” That was the claim by Maz Azria during the show and yes the challenge is tough season after a season. Specially when the Hervé Léger collections are always based on his iconic bandage dress, so you definitely need a lot of creativity to be able to bring something new and strong. After the Spring/Summer 2010 collection I totally disliked, I was pleased to see something rejuvenating. Probably the sleekness and the edgy-side effect on the collection turned me on. A very sexy collection of clothes embracing the body with bandages and laces, a good balance between sci-fi and glamour. Not a huge fan of the details on the hips, but not ugly either.
Malandrino
I don’t know if it’s the perfect timing with the Chinese New Year that made me review Catherine Malandrino’s Fall 2010 collection, but I have been enchanted by the charms of her collection. A great layering of cultures between a Genghis Khan-like outfit, a Parisian glamour velvet and primitive prints. The styling was perfect and captivating, recreating a warrior that has crossed the many cultures of the World, bringing with her fringes, embroideries and crafty accessories. Malandrino was able in this collection to create a line made of chic and elegant items, extremely wearable and unique – perfect for layers if you are in an ethnic mood. The black tweed kimono with japonaiseries over a red dress and leather long gloves stood out.
Clockwise: Ohne Titel, Alexander Wang, Rag & Bone, Lacoste, Altuzarra, Hervé Léger, Philosophy, VPL
Fashion Weeks just started and you’ve probably noticed a full-blown Jacquelyn Jablonski-mania over the runways. In just four days, she must have been appeared at (obviously exaggerated) perhaps 90% of the shows and walking down the catwalk probably a minimum twice per show. At only 18 years old, the shy and beautiful Jersey girl is taking over NY like a hurricane. After an impressive Spring 2010 with 58 shows appearance, Fall 2010 will be her year.
Clockwise from left to right: Ports 1961, Elise Overland, Jen Kao, Cushnie et Ochs, Altuzarra, Adam, Yigal Azrouël
After 4 days of Fashion Week, I’ve been spotting a wave of sleek or textured leather dresses. Designers have been surf on the Spring 2010 trends (Celine, Karl, YSL, etc.) with either sexy black or brown vintage-ish leathers. A fabric which I believe is more appropriate for Fall/Winter, no?
It may have taken me a while to write a note after the loss of the genius designer Alexander McQueen. Despite the tsunami of message of sympathy you could find all over the web, on TV and in the press, it was hard for me to really write about a designer I barely followed. Not that I have been hiding for so long in a cave, it’s just I’ve never wanted to concentrate my attention on McQueen. Back in the days, all I’ve learned in the press about Alexander McQueen is that he was a genius, a freak, a British weirdo that designs crazy and unwearable clothes. And somehow, most of his collections were favorited by Fashion Editors in eccentric, dark and gothic editorials. As a blogger, I had to start giving more attention to his work which led me to cover the extraterrestrial SS 2010 and primitive FW 2010 (menswear) collections. And this is where my young McQueen culture starts and stops, with a high anticipation of the upcoming (canceled) FW 2010 show next week in Paris.
Before writing this post I wanted to go through all the show videos and photos online until realizing that his brightness and creativity will be forever lost wherever he is resting now. Alexander McQueen was and will be probably the only designer able to make collections from scratch with his imagination defying the industry’s needs and economic objectives. Every season, every collection was a fresh wave of creativity, audacity and a clear vision that defined his work and attitude. This is probably why editors worry that the industry won’t be the same anymore. The industry worries that monotonous collections will take over his creativity and that no designer will be able to take over his legacy.
Alexander McQueen certainly left us a legacy in the industry that have inspired today’s designers. Just by looking at what I, and many others, believe is McQueen’s best collection, you can tell how much he inspired many collections and designers after his Fall 2008 Fashion Show in Paris. Right now, Lee Alexander McQueen may be resting in peace in this tree that inspired him in a day when his brilliance had never shone more brightly.
I thought this presentation of Rachel Antonoff’s Fall 2010 collection deserved some attention. Like Fashionista.com says it, this is probably the most creative presentation seen this year. Yesterday, the presentation took place at the Lafayette House where the designer brought us in an Agatha Christie or Hercule Poirot crime-scene inspired theme. Like a role-playing game, you had to identify who could be the murderer by watching the witnesses. The presentation does not overwhelm the collection, instead adds more attention to the 50’s and 60’s vintage-ish clothes. Lots of satin and floral prints, my highlight is the black dress with sort of feathers at the bottom.
New York Fashion Week may be the week of glitter and extravaganza, but for its last year at Bryant Park, Fashion Week embraces fashion-consciousness with an incredible wave of sustainable designers to follow. Most of the shows will be organized by the Green Shows (the eco-version of the MBFW organization) and some like Organic will have the chance to present at Bryant Park. Often underrated, eco-conscious designers may be as talented than traditional designers but with the challenge to use sustainable fabrics and techniques. And what a challenge to create garments that are well-constructed, creative, playful and wearable with the eco spirit added to that.
So if you feel like you are in mood to bring your support to this new wave and step onto the green carpet, here is a schedule to mark up on your agenda.
Feb 14, 7PM Gary Harvey “Recycled Couture” @ the Green Shows 311 E 11TH ST
Feb 15, 1PM Vaute Couture @ the Green Shows
Feb 15, 3PM Thieves by Sonja den Elzen @ the Green Shows
Feb 15, 5PM JoAnn Berman @ the Green Shows
Feb 16, 1PM Willian @ the Green Shows
Feb 16, 3PM POPOMOMO @ the Green Shows
Feb 16, 6PM Samantha Pleet @ the Green Shows
Feb 17, 3PM deux fm @ the Green Shows
Feb 17, 5PM House of Organic/ Ekovaruhuset @ the Green Shows
Feb 17, 7PM C. Marchuska @ the Green Shows
"I'm a man living on a fashion runway. Not a professional fashion editor neither in the industry, this blog is my diary of self-indulgence in pursuit of a dream." - Kevin
Clean, serene, sophisticated and Sofia Coppola – this is Marc Jacobs’ A-Game.
