The utility trend continues to fly this Fall and Winter, and in nearly every collections you will find a giant-collared shearling, aviator-inspired jacket or overcoat. Soon the aviator jacket will become utterly desirable by every man and woman, but no worries, each designer has been creative and will offer unexpected variations in terms of shape, thickness, hairiness and look. So if you are looking for the classic WWII bomber jacket, you will like Bottega Veneta’s revival look or Burberry Prorsum and their giant collars and extra shearling. D&G and Gucci took a more glamour look with faux-fur and hybrid textures. While Prada unexpectedly reinvented the jacket with funky colors and geometric patterns.
On the runway or on the streets off the menswear Fall 2010 shows, I have spotted THE major trend. Lots and lots of sheepskin-like coats & jackets. The aviator look is definitely back, if your parent has kept their old shearling jacket it’s definitely a good time to upcycle it. Classic or in extravagant colors, the sheepskin has that perfect look to keep you warm and elegant.
One of my favorite Swedish brand, Tiger of Sweden, has been around for long enough to perfect the men’s suit and tailoring into fashionable and affordable streetwear clothes for men and women. The Spring/Summer collection is the perfection of elegant juxtapositions of surprising colors and prints. Any Tiger of Sweden items look sharp incorporating modern/minimal shapes and a rock’n'roll twist. The collection is largely dominated with blue hues for men and red for women. I love stripes and I am pretty excited to see a come back in a fashionably manner on the men’s collection. The styling in the ad campaign shot by Oscar Spendrup is quite excellent. I think the white trouser and double-button jacket, with striped shirt underneath is a classic yet really elegant ensemble. In the collection for women, I see a lot of printed separate outfits including shiny sleek fabrics. Specially like the sexy floral printed dress above and the mini-short suits. Definitely a great line for the dapper guy and an elegant jet-set woman.
To top the utilitarian trend I’ve spotted on several collections, designers have spoiled us with some amazing boots that will let you ride Fall/Winter in style like never before. Directly inspired from equestrian boots, military galoshes or boxing high-top sneakers, there are boots for everyone and every day. This will be probably an exhaustive list of the most amazing boots seen during the menswear Fall 2010 fashion shows. My favorites? Louis Vuitton for their versatility.
“Magnifique.” That was the adjective I had in mind after looking at the whole Lanvin collection. I have to admit I’ve been quite a fan-boy of Lanvin – Albert Elbaz and menswear designer Lucas Ossendrijver for the past 2 years and I may sound very subjective in my critic. The apocalyptic and futuristic theme of the collection was unexpected by Lanvin, more used to a softer approach, but that collection was way bolder than Raf’s. Mixing Star Wars, Matrix and The Road, the items have streetwear chic shapes with textured and roughly refined coats and suits. The edgy tailoring is quite surprising, such as the frayed sweaters. Shaped for the end of the world, the collection integrates an utilitarian touch, the zipped-sleeves on the vests are quite amazing, love the python shoes and all the coats are simply fantastic. And have a look at the backpacks, isn’t it an anti-these of luxury but you look at those so enviously ?
As you may have guessed, this final day in Paris was not that great of a day. I mean relatively speaking yes it was sinceI was literally blown away by the Lanvin show. But all the other shows of the day were mostly plain and boring on a design “subjective” point of view. If you feel that a collection deserved a review, feel free to let me know – I’d be happy to reconsider looking at it once again.
Alrighty! So Menswear Fashion weeks are over, today Couture shows started in Paris and in three weeks Fall 2010 Fashion Week is back in NYC! So stay tuned, don’t forget to subscribe to the RSS feed or my newsletter. Also, BIC NEWS – shockingly – I am about to enter the Twitter world to share real-time news alerts, the type of junk-food news alerts that fit in 140 characters everyone is sucked into but sooo amazing!
To finish this coverage of the menswear collections, I have one word to say: “Bravo!”
Alber Elbaz and menswear designer Lucas Ossendrijverdsds
At Ann Demeulemeester, our man is a mysterious and romantic vampire. There is no doubt the whole Twilight movie theme was vibrating into the collection. Dark and develish, the layers of fabrics and coats are simply amazing. The capes and the feathers add quite some romantism to the collection. The all-black collection by Ann is for once not to be complained about, I love the black and slim suits, and the high-waisted pants – dark and glamour.
Hermès
It looked to me the collection was specially thought for the Young-rich Parisian kid showing off his eye-popping pants and silk scarves. Véronique Nichanian’s collection for Hermes is what I call a French classic, insanely well put together and a soft color palette, the outfits are all to die for. Classic and sophisticated, I love the insertion of bold items like the croc hoodie jacket plus some luxurious streetwear-inspired items in the collection.
Raf Simons
On the verge of being too gimmicky, I had actually enjoyed Raf Simons’ futuristic colelction. Reinventing menswear with a strong vision of what could the suit in 5 years, I liked the magnetic snap buttons or velcro straps on the jackets, revisited the classic trench with new layers and fabrics, men will wear long skirt-sweaters and geometric patterns. The collection is by far playful and youthful.
Stefano Pilati continues what he started two seasons ago. Doing what he does best, without taking any risk, a fashionable soft and luxurious collection. Soft-shoulders and voluminous jackets and coats, light harem pants the 3/4 coats are to die for. Highlights were the ostrich leather jacket and long gloves. Every YSL show is always introduced by a short-film, this season Bruce Weber presented his own way the menswear collection by Pilati and Weber’s exploration of nudity – definitely NSFW.
Comme des Garçons
The label is one of those rare fashion house I contemplate with astonishment each season. Kawakubo has to ability to re-think what already exists and meet utility to aesthetic. Inspired by the polar theme, we can see Inuit-inspired outfits with lots of fur on the edges and everything layered. Shorts of the pants, bullet-proof waists and long fur cardigan underneath the vest. Not that the collection needed a bit of color punch, the flashy colored shoes where a hit. The designer’s attempt to go away from the conventions is very risky specially when trying to attract more customers in this tough economic period.
Givenchy
It seems to me that Ricardo Tisci has found his voice and that’s the reason why Givenchy is one of these brands I expect the most. Deeply inspired by Catholicism, the collection was accessorized with some Jesus sandals and tees, thorn necklaces, neoprene leggings and frocks. Fantastic collection and well refined, a bit short but long enough to not overwhelm the concept. My hits were the black studded pants and hooded coats.
John Galliano
As usual, Galliano knows how to make collection with his theatrical signature. This season combines desirable outfits for anyone, not always wearable but who does not dream to wear one of these pieces. The show starts with a Sherlock Holmes-themed clothes, to the British dandy with amazing suits then flies over to the Japanese samurai/sumo stage before going to China and the beautiful silk printed shirts. Quite some pieces could make the highlights of the day, but my first thought comes to the dandy corsets, what a strange thing to put on men but very imaginative.
Let’s start the last day of Milan’s Menswear Fashion Show with mixed feelings on this show. It has been bloody hell on DSquared² Fall collection, Tarantino would love the drama into it, but seeing guys coming out of a Canadian nightclub after a bar brawl, how is that supposed to translate. And what’s the deal with Bill Kaulitz opening the show in an gender confusing look that does not even fit in the collection? Was it an attempt to hide a collection that almost looks like the 2009 season with some make-up stunts? To give the twin designers the benefit of the doubt, the collection was definitely different from what has been done the past few days. No preppy lumberjack look, DSquared² is being DSquared²: slouchy, skinny, punky with white tees, jeans, leather black boots and cool studded leather belts. My highlight is the last look: interesting short drop-crotch pant I have to admit.
Iceberg
Like every season, Iceberg sets immediately the chaos with a low-key collection mixing stylish outfits with deconstructed items, mix-matching motifs and a rainbow of colors. The collection would make Gavroche from “Les Misérables” look fashionable. Definitely inspired from the industrial 19th century, Silvio and Giuliana Gerani are revisiting the populist book from Victor Hugo with an elitist fashion twist.
Z Zegna
When you think Zegna, we don’t expect Alessandro Sartori to come up with a collection to different from what we are used to. Wearable and chic Italian-tailored slim suits, coats and turtlenecks in grey and black. Zegna is known for its conservatism but when looking Zegna’s sister brand Z Zegna collection, I was surprisingly, shockingly, pleased to see the collection was rather innovative with some edginess. This Fall collection was definitely flying away from the label’s comfort zone. Seams on the loose, inside-out-looking vests, innovative leather work and a bit of refreshing colors. Great outfits to look chic and comfortable!
Discover the backstages of the show on their website.
A colorful and refreshing collection, something Vivienne Westwood in the vibe, the cool hunter is in love of nature. A little bird could be seen accessorizing some of the outfits like it a poetic touch to a rough hunting jacket. Totally like the baroque colors in this collection. The pants were the masterpieces in the collection, well-fitted, I’ve spotted some innovative pants for the perfect dandy.
Versace
Finally, a collection out of this world, and who better than Donatella Versace could do it in Milan? Blade Runner is revisited with Daft Punk blasting in the background. Futuristic shades, sleek and ultra-slim pants, motorcycle jackets, latex finger gloves and boots. Who on this planet will be able to pull off these vinyl-like pants without squeezing too much their nuts? Textured and strong shapes, is Versace’s Fall 2010 menswear a lead to a new direction the designer is taking? Bye bye, glamour and sexy, hello punk and S&M.
Alexander McQueen
An entirely printed collection following the alien prints appearing in the Women’s Spring 2010 show. Full printed suits and coats to the bags and shoes. This collection has the smell of a cannibalistic ritual a-la Hannibal Lecter – much darker, much sinister – Alexander McQueen took a huge risks with this skulls & bones collection. Simply puzzling, I wonder how these items will hit the shelves. But who would complain about McQueen just being a visionary.
Arthur Herbert Fonzarelli aka Fonzie would be happy, the Bottega Veneta show was all about rock’n'roll hairstyle and rolled-up jeans with the type of swag that make you rock the runway like a Top Gun movie. Influences in the collection are obvious: 70’s and rock’n'roll. Aviator leather jacket and military pants on duty, red flashy double-breasted jacket with thick shiny black shoes at the ballroom.
Gianfranco Ferré
Fall 2009 was the season of volume, Fall 2010 will be the year of the lankybad boy. The outfits reminded me the many devilish doctors you see in futuristic Japanese anime. The Ferré man is punk meets luxurious. Lots of plaid on plaid, biker boots, tall-thin coats and fur. On top or under the jacket, fur was the prominent signature of Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi’s collection.
Prada
Miuccia Prada is a genius by reinventing the preppy boy meets timber man. For fall 2010, the Prada man will be wearing camouflage coats and crew neck sweater cropped above the waist to reveal a blue shirt underneath. The double-collared coat reminded me the Burberry coats seen the day before…probably catching a new trend over here. The Prada collection is not what I would have expected first, not only surprisingly pleased to watch the show live, taking such risks for this season was above all my expectations. Can’t wait to get a hand on that turquoise wool cardigan and the yellow black patterned handbag.
"I'm a man living on a fashion runway. Not a professional fashion editor neither in the industry, this blog is my diary of self-indulgence in pursuit of a dream." - Kevin
