The life story of an artist is usually identified by periods defining his different artistic techniques, emotions or experiments. I like to think of Matisse’s work, which I saw in an exhibit at the NY Moma two weeks ago. Matisse who had made heavy shifts in terms of his work between 1913 and 1917, permanently trying to reinvent himself through impressionism and neo-cubism. Anyway, it is not my intent to elaborate on Matisse but to talk about the famous, the lost and most controversial photographer, Helmut Newton.

The photographer known for his eroticism and sometimes, borderline-S&M had brought some sweat to fashion publishers. We all know about the photo of Elsa Perretti in a bunny suit or the woman in bondage. But we almost forgot that like other artists, Helmut Newton had a period where his images were not all about sexuality. We forgot he was in the 60’s among the praised photographers Vogue UK and US used to hire each month among the David Bailey, Bob Richardson, David Montgomery and others. A period during which he invented the fashion visuals that photographers reproduce today on all the magazine spreads. Iconic compositions, statuesque poses and black-and-white techniques, his work was also notable for repeatedly working with the same models such as Jill Kennington and Twiggy whom he felt comfortable working with. But it sometimes needs an accident of life to bring an artistic shift. It is said in his autobiography that Helmut Newton, once had a terrible and nearly fatal heart attack in 1971, which had completely changed his vision and his work. A vision that brought him to success and everyone trying to replicate his vision in these modern days (I particularly think of Terry Richardson or Juergen Teller among others).

Scans by ciaovogue.blogspot.com

If you have watched the documentary “The September Issue” last year, thanks to the fashion Empress and EIC Anna Wintour, you probably already know every steps it takes to create the iconic and every women’s most expected issue of their favorite glossy magazine. Not only it takes drama in Wintour’s office and André Leon Talley to start his weight loss diet, but it’s also 6 months of sweat and tears, lots of unpaid interns sacrificed on the altar of Fashion, assistants burnt out, hours in the pre-prod room, hours in the post-prod room, gazillions of $ spent, months of travels around the world and around the clock, etc.

Ok, I may be exaggerating a bit too much. I must say, for many in this industry it’s like giving birth to a baby, a big baby of 500 more pages made of glossy paper and just speaking Fashion. Fascinating. Since a child, I’ve always been fascinated by Fashion magazines, flipping the pages and staying amazed by the artistic pictures in the second part of the issue. Moved by the creativity it takes to design these clothes but also the work of the photographers to create the iconic picture each is looking for. But the September issue is not the result of an industry’s tradition, it has been created years ago by Vogue as a pure marketing tool to attract more sales and more advertisers. And now, all the publications are fighting to win the biggest revenue race, it’s like a way to stay “My magazine is the best out here”. So what’s the ingredient to make it a “Hit”? Of course the cover. No matter what the content is, customers will buy the cover. And that’s the reason why most of the time we see the biggest stars of the current buzz – the ones that are the most “bankable” as we like to say. Nonetheless, even if this September issue tradition is irrelevant in my opinion, it does sometimes reveal quite some trends and good surprises you would not expect.

After spending an hour collecting all the most interesting covers of this month, here is my top 5 of the best September issue covers:

#5: Musically, Lady Gaga is unquestionably talented, but I’ve never believed the pop singer was legit in the fashion world despite her extravagance and curiosity to experiment. On the other hand, Nick Knight did an amazing job to create a cover that will make you feel like obtaining a candy box.

Vanity Fair US & UK September 2010 Lady Gaga By Nick Knight

#4: Simply chic. Greg Kadel did a great job at immortalizing the model Constance Jablonski doing the perfect wink. This cover has a potential to be iconic.

Vogue Germany September 2010 Constance Jablonski by Greg Kadel

#3: Kate Moss is still one of – or even- the best model even after 20 years in the industry. This is my third best cover for, actually, being the only one to talk about trends. And just the idea of Kate Moss being naked underneath a Burberry military-trench is outrageously sexy.

Vogue UK September 2010 Kate Moss by Patrick Demarchelier

#2: This could have been a flop, but it turns out so well that it’s second best cover. Conceptually “risqué”, this cover is just another proof that Sweden is becoming more and more influential in the industry.

Elle Sweden September 2010 Frida Gustavsson by Andreas Sjodin

#1: Despite the blatant marketing stunt. These 3 covers are simply grandiose.

i-D cover Kate Moss September 2010

i-D Cover Lady Gaga September 2010

i-D cover Naomi Campbell September 2010

What could possibly push me to post an article about the divine and iconic actresses Audrey Hepburn and Jean Seberg? Definitely neither a passion for black & white film-making from the 60’s nor a fetishism for women with short hair. But because, years ago, I helplessly fell under the charm of two of the most beautiful women in our entire civilization. Audrey Hepburn, Jean Seberg, two fantastic actresses who left an indelible imprint in history, not only in the movie industry but also fashionably speaking. After watching again my favorite movies from these two legendary stars, I could not resist but to pay my tribute to Audrey and Jean, or frankly, if you read this, throw at your face a breeze of class and grace that could inspire you. I honestly have the conviction that design and fashion is becoming trashier than ever, and our world is loosing sight of the pure elegance. Though, “l’espoir fait vivre” when watching and remembering that the 60’s were not so far away and that maybe, maybe people could get inspired once again with – in my opinion – the best fashion decade in our history.

The feminine and fragile look were Audrey and Jean’s signature. Wearing simple classic silhouettes, chic and timeless; whether it was Givenchy or Ungaro (both respectively muse of the French designers). A slightly rebellious nature for both is evident with short hair and by wearing tailored clothes which was relatively a revolution in the 60’s. As a conclusion, they deserve my title of  History’s most elegant ambassadors by staying gorgeous, and utterly graceful, all along their life being strong and showing the example even in their darkest moments. In my battle to bring back class and elegance to our world, I’ll take each step at a time and for once sleep well tonight.

Model: Tiernan Cowling - Photographer: Mark Hunter, the Cobrasnake

Difficult to not fall in love with LA and Australian model, recently engaged to DJ Steve Aoki, Tiernan Cowling. Shot in the streets of LA by the mischievous photographer Mark the Cobrasnake on a sightseeing tour ride from Hollywood boulevard to an In-N-Out’s drive-in. As usual, Wildfox gives us thrills in the back with a playful and light-hearted lookbook for their Holiday/Resort 2010 collection. Ok… probably, only in LA you can wear mini-shorts and cropped sweaters; after all it’s a collection true to its nature and success. With a fresh inspiration from the 80’s and 90’s, Kimberley Gordon does a great job of putting together a line that will keep your winter warm and fabulous.

This Australian-based brand with a Japanese name has seen joys and tears over the past years. When becoming one of the hottest denim brand alongside with Acne, Ksubi designers George Gorrow, Dan Single, Paul Wilson, and Oscar Wright did not expect voluntarily filing for bankruptcy in an attempt to revamp the company’s management and find the right business model. Despite the bad financial situation, the designers/surfers decided to continue to “let the good times roll” for their 10th anniversary collection.

And there is no doubt the brand wants its “cool” status back with a new line obviously inspired by the biker-chic meets the Australian surfer. Denim is obviously a big part of the collection while leather vests over unbuttoned shirts and cropped denim shorts are serving the grungy aesthetic. Black sheer tops and floral prints add a layer of good girl gone wild. Let’s hope the new line called “Successful Business” will be their turning point to a new decade.

Or this post should probably be called Trends I am Seriously Sick Of Part 2, but it would be too selfish of myself. So I speak for the people, the people who have to silently endure watching the most horrible trends hit the streets.

1) Clogs. Even Laura Ingalls would not wear these while rolling on the hill near her Little House. Eat it, hide it, burn it.

2) High-waisted denims. What the hell is that about?

3) Wedges.  Were first used by prostitutes and courtesans in Europe in the 18th Century to avoid the muck of urban streets…

4) Ripped tights. Read again above.

5) Really deep v-necks. The men’s version of the low cut…

6) Beanies. Unless you are a construction worker or hiding your greasy hair after a punk concert, avoid the slouchy hat, this is not chic.

Discover the Trends You Are Sick Of Part 1

Dior Resort 2011 collection in Shanghai

It’s cute, girly, polished, lavish, peach-and-creamy and all things 60’s. A resort collection by a John Galliano revisiting the feminine retro clothing from the 60’s but way too uninspired and cliché. For a cruise collection, this collection is certainly irrelevant as much as resort collections are irrelevant to the consumers in my opinion. Perhaps not for the buyers trying to create more demand than it currently exists and selling luxury clothes as quickly as possible when consumers value worth for their money. Even if it means transgressing seasons and increasing pressure on designers to deliver three or even six collections a year. You may ask Karl Lagerfeld who had probably designed 7 collections already in 2010. Resort/cruise collections are just gimmicky and unsustainable lines where timelessness is valued.

Anyway, what else could I say on this Dior collection? Nice marketing stunt at the gate of the Chinese market, same place where Chanel did its 2010 Cruise presentation. So not surprising. Next year, it will be Louis Vuitton or Versace. But with all the respect I have for Dior and Galliano, I think the French house has a huge and distinct Fashion heritage that it hurts to see it just became a sheep following the pack.

Malgosia Bela for Self-Service #32

This month, I had promised myself to stay away from my newsstand. The source of my fanatical addiction to fashion magazines. The place where I could spend hundreds of dollars buying magazines to buildup my crazy collection of editorials on glossy paper. Nonetheless, I must admit I am pretty proud of this collection and that one day will be (hopefully) super useful. Hello Vogue, Elle, Purple, i-D et al. here comes a new friend. The temptation was too hard and finally grabbed a copy of the latest Spring issue from Self-Service magazine. This is when I inadvertently fell in love for a few photos of Malgosia Bela and Anna Selezneva making appearances in a stunning editoral artwork and the beautiful Carmen Kass dressed in the hottest clothes of the season. This is all shot by photographer/editor-chief/creative director of Self Service magazine Ezra Petronio. Even though the style and artwork reminds me of the lookbook signature-style of photography Juergen Teller, I am a total sucker for this. At the same time I could not resist either to the most beautiful cheekbones in the industry that has Anna Selezneva.

Anna Selezneva for Self-Service #32

Carmen Kass for Self-Service #32

For their upcoming issue #65, V Magazine generously sent me sneak previews of some of their new editorials. The photoshoot by monopolistic Terry Richardson and friends Miranda Kerr, Bar Refaeli and Raquel Zimmermann will probably drive you to get lost on Paradise Island with attractive sirens wearing the latest swimsuit of the season. Or this Alexander McQueen-esque editorial will bring you some chills with the sight of Dafne Cejas playing a dramatic widows in the Buenos Aires underworld wearing face-covering dresses from the pre-fall collections. You will easily recognize the Chanel Paris-Shanghai black gown and the Givenchy sheer tulle blouse. It feels good to see something a bit different these days when most of the editorials mostly look alike.

Americana collection by Dannijo

Since last year, edgy and big accessories were all out and about across the different fashion trends. The parade is far from vanishing once you stumble upon Dannijo’s treasure chest. The NYC-based brand, founded by the sisters Danielle and Jodie Snyder, create stylish yet effortlessly cool “slash” chic “slash” edgy “slash” eclectic accessories. Even the celebrities are rushing to get these on-the-budget jewelries handmade with love in New York. Studded or spiked, these accessories have a rocker-chic touch that will complement any of your frocks or distressed tees as long as it comes with the right attitude. One last advice, the more the better.

Boho collection