Is Jacquelyn Jablonski ready for another long season?

In less than a month, Fashion Week will hit New York like a storm before flying back to Europe (London, Paris and Milan). As usual, I am very impatient to discover the new collections and trends for next year’s Spring and Summer. Find out who are the new “It” girls in the industry and put the spot on the best designer collections. Of course, this schedule is not complete but will be updated as soon as I hear news.

Here is the schedule of New York Fashion Week which will start on September 9th until Sept. 16th with shows planned at its new home, the Lincoln Center, and many other venues.

Thursday September 09
9.00am Nicholas K, The Studio – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
10.00am Project Runway, The Theater – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
11.00am Richard Chai, The Stage – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
12.00pm Anne Bowen, Stone Rose Lounge – 10 Columbus Cir., 4th fl., at 58th St.
1.00pm Ruffian, The Studio – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
2.00pm Christian Siriano, The Stage – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
6.00pm Farah Angsana, The Studio – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
9.00pm Richie Rich, The Studio – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park

Thursday September 09 presentations
10.30am -> 11.30am Toni Maticevski, The Box – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
2.30pm -> 4.00pm Bensoni, The Box – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
6.30pm -> 7.30pm Verrier, The Box – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
7.00pm -> 8.00pm Billy Reid, Milk Studios – 450 West 15th St.

Friday September 10
10.00am BCBG Max Azria, The Theater – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
11.00am Duckie Brown, The Stage – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
12.00pm Michael Angel, The Studio – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
2.00pm Edition by Georges Chakra, The Stage – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
3.00pm Ports 1961, The Theater – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
4.00pm Alexander Berardi, The Studio – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
8.00pm Academy Of Art University, The Theater – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park

Friday September 10 presentations
9.30am -> 10.30am Tadashi Shoji, The Box – Lincoln Center
1.30pm -> 2.30pm Buckler, The Box – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
3.00pm -> 4.00pm Jeremy Laing, Milk Studios – 450 West 15th St., 8th fl. – betw. 9th & 10th ave.

Saturday September 11
10.00am Lacoste, The Theater – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
11.00am Cynthia Rowley, The Stage – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
12.00pm Ohne Titel, Exit Art – 475 10th Avenue betw. 36th and 37th Streets
1.00pm Prabal Gurung, The Studio – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
2.00pm Adam, The Stage – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
3.00pm Vivienne Tam, The Theater – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
4.00pm Mik Cire by Eric Kim, The Studio – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
6.00pm Charlotte Ronson, The Stage – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
7.00pm Z Spoke by Zac Posen, The Theater – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
8.00pm Altuzarra, Milk Studios – 450 W. 15th St. betw. 9 & 10th Ave. – 10011
9.00pm Venexiana, The Studio – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park

Saturday September 11 presentations
10.30am -> 11.30am Binetti, The Box – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
2.30pm -> 3.30pm Yoana Baraschi, The Box – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
3.00pm -> 4.00pm Patrik Ervell, Milk Studios – 450 West 15th St. – Studio 4
7.00pm -> 8.00pm Gary Graham, Milk Studios – 450 West 15th St.

Sunday September 12
10.00am Derek Lam, The Stage – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
11.00am Lela Rose, The Studio – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
11.00am Simon Spurr, Exit Art – 475 10th Avenue betw. 36th and 37th Streets
1.00pm Dkny, 711 Greenwich Street
2.00pm Rebecca Taylor, The Studio – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
3.00pm Hervé Léger by Max Azria, The Stage – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
4.00pm Diane Von Furstenberg, The Theater – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
5.00pm Y-3, Park Avenue Armory – 643 Park Avenue betw. 66th and 67th St. – 10065
5.00pm Trias, The Studio – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
6.00pm Thakoon, TBC
8.00pm Tommy Hilfiger , The Theater – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
9.00pm Vassilios Kostetsos, The Studio – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park

Sunday September 12 presentations
10.30am -> 11.30am Timo Weiland, The Box at The Tents at Lincoln Center -
2.30pm -> 3.30pm Rebecca Minkoff, The Box – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park

Monday September 13
9.00am Jenny Packham, The Studio – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
10.00am Carolina Herrera, The Theater – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
11.00am Carlos Miele, The Stage – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
11.00am Zero + Maria Cornejo, Hosfelt Gallery – 531 W 36th Street
12.00pm Diesel Black Gold, Location TBC -
1.00pm Tracy Reese, The Studio – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
2.00pm Donna Karan New York, 711 Greenwich St.
3.00pm Monique Lhuillier, The Stage – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
4.00pm Yeohlee, Location TBC -
5.00pm Alexandre Herchcovitch, The Studio – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
6.00pm Betsey Johnson, The Theater – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
6.00pm Michael Bastian, Exit Art – 475 10th Ave at 36th St.
7.00pm Perry Ellis, The Stage – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park

Monday September 13 presentations
8.30am -> 10.00am William Tempest, The Box – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
2.30pm -> 3.30pm Tony Cohen, The Box – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park

Tuesday September 14
9.00am Elie Tahari, The Studio – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
10.00am Badgley Mischka, The Theater – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
11.00am Vera Wang, The Stage – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
1.00pm Rosa Cha , The Studio – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
2.00pm Max Azria, The Theater – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
3.00pm Dennis Basso, The Stage – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
6.00pm Luca Luca, The Studio – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
7.00pm G-Star, Pier 94 711 12th Ave – 55th St and West Side Highway
7.00pm Tibi, The Stage – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
7.00pm Yigal Azrouël, Exit Art – 475 10th Ave at 36th St.
8.00pm Narciso Rodriguez, The Theater – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
9.00pm Toni Francesc, The Studio – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park

Tuesday September 14 presentations
9.00am -> 10.30am Monique Pean, The Box – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
9.30am -> 10.30am Rachel Roy, Oenslager gallery at the NY Public Library for Performing Arts – Lincoln Center
1.30pm -> 3.30pm Bibhu Mohapatra, The Box – Lincoln Center
6.00pm -> 8.30pm Odyn Vovk, 87 Lafayette St- White and Lafayette
6.30pm -> 7.30pm Sophie Theallet, The Box – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park

Wednesday September 15
9.00am Tory Burch, The Studio – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
10.00am Michael Kors, The Theater – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
11.00am Nanette Lepore, Bryant Park – 6th ave. and 42nd street
1.00pm General Idea, The Studio – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
2.00pm Gottex, The Theater – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
3.00pm Milly by Michelle Smith, The Stage – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
5.00pm Odd Molly, The Studio – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
6.00pm Anna Sui, The Theater – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
8.00pm Proenza Schouler, TBC -
9.00pm Zang Toi, The Studio – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park

Wednesday September 15 presentations
8.30am -> 10.00am Bill Blass, The Box – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
1.00pm -> 2.30pm Adrienne Vittadini, The Box – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
6.30pm -> 7.30pm Mackage, The Box – Lincoln Center

Thursday September 16
10.00am Ralph Lauren, Skylight Studios – 275 Hudson Street
11.00am Ralph Lauren, Skylight Studios – 275 Hudson Street 2nd Show
12.00pm Isaac Mizrahi, The Theater – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
1.00pm Davidelfin, The Studio – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
2.00pm Argentina Group Show, The Stage – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
3.00pm Calvin Klein Women’s Collection, 205 West 39th St.,Ground Floor
4.00pm Calvin Klein Women’s Collection, 205 West 39th St.,Ground Floor 2nd show
6.00pm J. Mendel, The Studio – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
7.00pm Naeem Khan, The Stage – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
8.00pm L.A.M.B, The Theater – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
9.00pm Ivana Helsinki, The Studio – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park

Thursday September 16 presentations
11.30am -> 1.00pm Andy & Debb, The Box – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park
6.30pm -> 7.30pm Rebecca Moses, The Box – Lincoln Center, Damrosch Park

Pucci, Michael Kors, BCBG Max Azria, Marc Jacobs, Balmain, Alexander Wang, Versace

If you are not afraid to pop your flesh up during Summer, the designers went completely mad with their scissors to make one of the strongest trend of the season. Cutouts were all over the place in Fashion week. Designers like Michael Kors and Versace did not shy away as usual. Even this time, hot players like Balmain and Marc Jacobs got into the exercise with sexy gold sequined bodycons or ruffled dresses. Alexander Wang did try some experiments like his famous cutouts socks for his trendy sportswear collection. And the Versace turquoise dress on Ginta Lapina is the sexiest of the season!

Balmain, Viktor & Rolf, Chloé

Balmain

Once again, we see sizzling, sexy sleek silhouettes with breathtaking legs and signature-shoulders that party girls will embrace so easily. This season though it’s not the usual distressed and trashy look, French designer Christophe Decarnin has gone to an elegant baroque treatment with 17th century-inspired jackets, jacquard prints, golden buttons and pinstripes. And surprisingly, highly-tailored suits with sophisticated frills made an appearance at Balmain probably to attract a broader and classier clientele that want to look chic & sexy at the office. The Balmain collection screams lavishly glamour like the golden sequin wrapped dress with a bow-tie and the long gold gown at the end of the show. Overall, this season is probably a more mature collection that shows Decarnin’s talent to transform his customers into powerful and beautiful women. And obviously you’ll have to pay the price to get that result. The focus of the season definitely was on the legs, longer than ever with disco-inspired pants over the shoes. Could this be the sign of a new 70’s redux?

Viktor & Rolf

The most captivating show of the season. Designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren show season after season they are pure performers, backstage and on stage. In this show, Kristen McMenamy appeared at the center of the catwalk wearing ten layers of coats prior to a game of undress and dress. Model after model, the designers were dressing each of them with a layer they removed from Kristen McMenamy. The first outfit that came out was an enormous coat that was transformed into a drastically different coat more fit and elaborated after a few magical manipulations by Viktor and Rolf. The show called “Glamour factory” was purely another showroom of what creativity can bring to fashion, showing the infinite possibilities an item can offer. But I hate to say that I’ll probably remember the show more than the clothes (which anyway will still be editors’ favorites).

Chloé

There is no such surprise in this collection to see the warm color palette of beige, camo and toffee again this season, 2 years back to back. But the one thing that have drastically changed is how Hannah MacGibbon has cleaned the outfits and reinvent her own new minimalism. No more frills and pointless decorations, but feminine and comfortable, the outfits are simplified into casual streetwear and elegant/dressy 70’s inspired Californian looks. A look that remind me of Farrah Fawcett back when she was a Charlie girl…actually this probably have inspired the fantastic fresh and breezy hair that all the models had. Fresh and breezy were the two words I had in mind when I first saw the collection, and for once I will be blatant about saying that every woman should wear Chloé. Only if this Fall/Winter, the customers are able to make a difference between Chloé, Céline and Stella McCartney which had with very similar collections; it looks like the French house has a big imprint on the fashion industry since all three designers worked at Chloé.

Givenchy, Alexander McQueen, Kenzo

Givenchy

Done with the high-graphics from the past season, Riccardo Tisci went to find inspiration in the high-mountains. The designer revisits the ski suit with his usual modern twist, incorporating new fabrics such as neoprene with the traditional knit. His trench coats and suits were definitely more classic as it was like 2 seasons ago. The silhouette is stronger, completing his design with glamorous patterns inspired from snowflakes that add an imaginative romance to its clothes, and it comes along well either in lace or knit. There is definitely a trend with these unzipped pieces such as the neoprene garments at the waist that reminded me of Balenciaga a few days before. Overall a gorgeous collection that looked more sparkly and sexy than the goth/romance from Spring and Ricardo has been clever to play with enough ruffles, frills and red to make it a chic season. I just found that some of the pieces looked like the 2006 collection but I’ll pass on this one.

Alexander McQueen

It was in a small private room in Paris that Alexander McQueen’s team had probably showed the British designer’s latest work before his tragic death. Almost like a tribute he made to himself, the collection encapsulated all the crafts and techniques he created in 20 years of work. Proving to everyone his talent in designing the most dramatic and romantic clothes in this collection of 16 outfits. His latest work is gorgeous and upsetting at the same time, only because I have the feeling we have not seen everything yet from his infinite talent. May it last forever and inspire a new troop of talented fashion designers for the coming years.

Kenzo

There was something spiritual from Kenzo’s fashion show. A fresh air of freedom came out of Antonio Marras’ collection that was not delimited by the boundaries of the trends. As usual, starting from Kenzo Takada’s brainchild, the clothes were made to be timeless by creating bohemian-hippie dresses and jumpsuits from patch-worked prints and embroideries. The vintage atmosphere added a casual-chicness mood to the outfits along with some great accessories such as the silk retro scarves, bean bags, 40’s style fedora or retro-pop inspired sunglasses. Pieces like the beaded dress with faux-fur shoulders was a masterpiece of how Kenzo sees luxurious and free-spirit clothing this season.

Karl Lagerfeld, Céline, Stella McCartney

Karl Lagerfeld

It sounds like Karl took a very different direction this season. Forget about the retro pin-ups from the Spring collection, Karl introduces us to his vision of modernism. Intentionally structured to create a sleek silhouette, from head to toe, the tailoring was clean and flawless. I liked the mix of new fabrics such as this new type of second-skin vinyl that looked more liquid than ever and the designer’s take on the shoulders to look polished and curvy. At some point, Karl Lagerfeld tried to add some elaborated embellishments like the beaded chiffons and silk dresses. Not that often we see Karl Lagerfeld taking a cue on futuristic design, but overall it’s a pretty solid collection that brings us to a very polished version of Blade Runner.

Céline

Minimalism without being boring, that is what Phoebe Philo delivered us for Fall/Winter. The collection started with military-inspired coats and dresses with a big emphasis on the button that reminded me Burberry’s but chic and discreet.  Then it was classic Céline with the omnipresence of (wide or stretched) leather skirts or tops styled with blouses or laces. Philo’s collection may somewhat seem conservative, though all the pieces were strong, clean and sexy without the usual fancy twists. Céline will certainly continue to attract her clientele looking for luxurious and ultra-feminine clothes without being over-the-top. Only I found the footwear to be weak in this collection. Once again Phoebe Philo demonstrated her talent in designing womenswear and no doubt she is getting stronger and stronger each season.

Stella McCartney

Talking about how Phoebe Philo may inspire a lot of young designers and perhaps the veterans also. The latest collection designed by Stella McCartney reminded me too much of the Céline show from the day before. Pure coincidence? Absolutely. A minimalist trend emerged in Paris during the fashion week. And my three designers of the day are the greatest examples. In general, I love minimalism and it always remind me how much Helmut Lang has led this fashion movement. Usually clean, straightforward, simple, casual, and easy to wear to make every women look great. Sometimes the designer’s vision of minimalist can add fantastic twists like Stella McCartney who usually plays in a more eccentric and fun-to-wear court. Her collection was definitely focused on the office wear with strong feminine business attire that would keep the businesswoman chic and elegant. But it also appeals for more casual occasions with some fun patterns, catchy colors and prints. Otherwise, I liked the cut-outs covered with transparent fabrics and the “defile” of legs. The skirts were often short along with high heels, the models were dressed to kill.

Maison Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester, Jean Paul Gaultier

It’s been due and overdue. Here is a continuation of my highlights from Paris Fashion Week. Not that I have been slacking but yes I had to procrastinate a tiny bit to take care of my current professional situation. And Yes! The great news is that I have changed job, the other great news is that every day I walk by Vogue’s headquarter makes me feel closer and closer to my dream!

To continue my coverage of Paris FW, I decided to pick 3 designers that obviously were a reflection of what was going on in the Paris shows. Paris was delivering and totally killing it… to the point it overshadowed the bad performances of the other fashion weeks! More to come!

Maison Martin Margiela

Among the most skeptical MMM fans, this show would have permanently decided the house’s future. Whether the team of designer can continue the brainchild without its father himself who left 2 seasons again or die with embarrassing disappointments. Let’s face it, this show was better than the previous collection with some strong ideas that will make it to any fashion editorials’ dreams. The designer’s focus was clearly on the sleeves (excluding the wide waistlines which was a total no-no), reinventing the shape, its proportions, adding more curves or accentuating the geometric forms. The finale with the fur headpieces with giant ear-flaps were unexpected and pleasant, demonstrating once again the very good experiments that makes Maison Martin Margiela so avant-garde and ahead of any other designers. It’s clearly obvious this Fall/Winter collection is more wearable than it was in the past, nonetheless it has that appeal that will still attract MMM’s customers. The first suits were, in my opinion, absolutely impeccable. The work on the pants to widen the legs on the front was perfect, in addition, the play and mix of transparent fabrics created a very sexy and gorgeous silhouette.

Ann Demeulemeester

The designer may have been feeling more audacious this season. The usual subtle minimalist rocker and androgynous look is going full-blown with big feather embellishments and striking red colors. The vibe of the collection is certainly more aggressive compared with last seasons. The accessories are fierce like these necklaces looking like whipcords and the feathers over the wrists are superb experiments. Overall the fetish details were the huge highlights, but it almost eclipsed the fantastic tailoring. The mix of variety in the cut of the pants and jackets with drapery all-over makes a relatively casual and effortless look that will make the hippest-in-town happy.

Jean Paul Gaultier

What I always like about Jean Paul Gaultier is his talent to find all these crazy twisted themes each season. If you had to squeeze JPG, it will come out such creative juice to take over the entire Paris Fashion Week. For this season, JPG used the “world traveler” theme with pieces inspired from many different cultures of the world, all put together to create a Parisian chic melting pot. Many have tried this theme already, but not many can perfect it like the French designer and his impeccable tailoring. The extremely diverse cast stormed the runway with incredible mixed and matched pieces with whatever prints, patterns or colors it could be; the result was eclectic, eccentric and sophisticated. Somewhere in the show you could find a bicker jacket over an Arabic hooded dress, a pastel blue Chinese harem pant and wearing 70’s style platform shoes.

Christian Dior, Lanvin

Christian Dior

As a follow-up of the excellent previous Couture show, the Fall collection is again highly-inspired from the equestrian world. But for the ready-to-wear, John Galliano presents the collection with a seductive woman liking strong utilitarian leather coats over light and suggestive dresses. The boudoir aesthetic was definitely a turn-on, with romantic ruffled chiffon dresses, lots of laces and silks embellishments, leather was purely chic and even crocheted. The use of ribbons added a perfect “undress-me” appeal to this glamour show. Only, I found the choice of boots out of place. Even though it was a good show, I was truly expecting more from Galliano for this season, maybe something innovative rather than just showcasing what will hit the stores soon.

Lanvin

When you have a designer like Alber Elbaz, you know you will always be unexpectably pleased by his talent to never get his head stuck in a look or a style. Instead, he reinvents himself each season, bringing new styles, shapes, techniques and inspirations. That collection looked so simple and sophisticated, it was probably the best and strongest collection of the season undoubtedly. Elbaz created a world where Cleopatra travels in our time, styling herself in structured and minimalist clothes with African-inspired embellishments. It was surprisingly fun to watch all the famous blonde models wearing the Cleopatra do impersonating the famous Queen in a very edgy-chic version. The half-ankled shoes, ostrich fur coat and gold-lame pleated top were stunning as everything in this show.

Dries Van Noten, Gareth Pugh, Balenciaga

Dries Van Noten

Has Dries delivered the unexpected? Was it really him? Less ecclectic than ever (meaning less prints), definitely understated but more and more elaborated to create an effortless chic factor and stunning feminine shapes. Simply by looking at these oversized skirts and trenches, a softer color palette and slouchy shapes, you can tell the designer worked on a highly sophisticated and minimalist feminine silhouette. The show gave me the impression of being in the streets of Paris, dressing chic with confidence and a bit of classics. Fresh and modern, what an excellent way to start Paris Fashion Week!

Gareth Pugh

Probably the most commercial and wearable collection so far. But the British designer did not forget to stay ambitious in this sophisticated futuristic goth inspired collection. Not being a huge fan of Gareth Pugh neither Rick Owens, I had enjoyed looking at each really dramatic look during the show which revealed a high level of execution. It was a full-blown of geometric patterns and modern fabrics like these neoprene-leather suits, cashmere-wool-neoprene coats and jackets. The shapes were unusually softer than ever to focus on the body by experimenting transparency and the body’s natural curves. I really liked the latest pieces with the fine chains that represent more the designer’s signature.

Balenciaga

First you hesitate, the second you scream GENIUS. Nicolas Ghesquière delivered his most and greatest experimental Fashion, optimistic and avant-gardiste; it’s been long awaited in this industry for a couple years. The illuminated tiles on the floor integrated in the very classic interior of the ” Hotel Crillon” was the perfect setting for this cosmonaut-chic collection. The mix of modern and synthetic fabrics with amazingly structured shapes blasted an extraordinary show and optimistic, desirable vision of the future of clothing and styling. The use of pastel and bright colors, and computerized patterns were unexpected for a Fall collection but thankfully fur, cashmere and wool reminded me that Global Warming has not yet arrived. The fantastic use of bubble wrap patterns and lace, combining classic and futuristic, to create sexy outfits that Parisian women would love to wear.

Pucci, Gucci, Etro

“Like an Italian classic.” By this saying I would describe the poor Milanese Fashion Week we had for the upcoming Fall 2010. As Cathy Horyn said it so well on the NY Times, this week, Italian designers had presented “The Looks of Lowered Expectations.” But don’t get wrong, it was not bad like if the clothes were absolutely terrible, it was bad like a spectacular trailer for a bad movie. Perhaps the current economic situation has pushed the designers to focus more on selling wearable clothes than making a true creative fashion show. For example: Dolce & Gabbana have designed what I call a parody of a fashion show with nice pieces but absolutely uninspired neither appropriate for the season. Defending their collection to be their “back to the roots” trip, in my opinion it was purely a show that played on emotional feedback hiding the designers’ fear of moving forward in fashion: “taking risks”.

Pucci

There was something outrageously sexy in this setting. Beautiful models walking down the hallway of a museum in ultra-sexy clothes. Peter Dundas took a new route where Gucci meets Versace to make a classy, elegant yet luxurious sexy body-cons/voluptuous dresses. The fox fur was just a wow in my mouth and some dresses were maybe getting too close to the trashy side but remained chic in the context. Beaded black dresses reminded me of Balmain or the printed skirts had a Versace appeal from last season. But nevertheless, all the pieces were quite wearable for women who like to be starred at. The last gown will be see on every red-carpet of Hollywood.

Gucci

Perhaps the economic reality has hit Italian Fashion right in the hearts, Gucci proves this season that, like other designers, it’s not anymore about showing the house’s true and creative ID but about selling clothes to a broader public. The Fall collection was truly a classy and elegant show with very chic clothes every women would wear and this is where the point is. Looking at the collection, it was a missing a thread that would create a plot from beginning to end. Instead I saw a line of multiple looks and separates with redundancy. The tailoring is sharp and some details were luxurious, but a not-so-great-neither-so-bad collection. I also wished to see more spectacular dresses. On a bad note, the shoes were poorly designed, the black stilettos with snakeskin were purely “deja vu” and these suede boots were out of place.

Etro

Where Italian designers were trying to focus on their couture origins and demonstrating the authenticity of their work, Veronica Etro went the opposite way by conducting a collection that may have perfectly incorporated Chinese traditional fashion into Western clothes. Etro definitely did not fall into the total “cliché” by creating stunning separates of chinoiseries and other patterned items into fully wearable and modern pieces. Rich and detailed, the printed silk dresses were fantastic and ultra flattering to be worn for evening wear and catch everyone’s attention, Mao-inspired military suit, Mongolian fur jacket, wrapped skirt and long cape with fur tails. The collection was an explosion of beautiful prints and colors blending the Chinese sub-cultures.

If there one thing I am still fascinated when it comes to Versace, it is the group finale. During that finale, the models were revealed from this huge box located in the middle of the public. A stunning effect. For those who have not seen the video of the show, just follow this link.