Karl Lagerfeld, Céline, Stella McCartney

Karl Lagerfeld

It sounds like Karl took a very different direction this season. Forget about the retro pin-ups from the Spring collection, Karl introduces us to his vision of modernism. Intentionally structured to create a sleek silhouette, from head to toe, the tailoring was clean and flawless. I liked the mix of new fabrics such as this new type of second-skin vinyl that looked more liquid than ever and the designer’s take on the shoulders to look polished and curvy. At some point, Karl Lagerfeld tried to add some elaborated embellishments like the beaded chiffons and silk dresses. Not that often we see Karl Lagerfeld taking a cue on futuristic design, but overall it’s a pretty solid collection that brings us to a very polished version of Blade Runner.

Céline

Minimalism without being boring, that is what Phoebe Philo delivered us for Fall/Winter. The collection started with military-inspired coats and dresses with a big emphasis on the button that reminded me Burberry’s but chic and discreet.  Then it was classic Céline with the omnipresence of (wide or stretched) leather skirts or tops styled with blouses or laces. Philo’s collection may somewhat seem conservative, though all the pieces were strong, clean and sexy without the usual fancy twists. Céline will certainly continue to attract her clientele looking for luxurious and ultra-feminine clothes without being over-the-top. Only I found the footwear to be weak in this collection. Once again Phoebe Philo demonstrated her talent in designing womenswear and no doubt she is getting stronger and stronger each season.

Stella McCartney

Talking about how Phoebe Philo may inspire a lot of young designers and perhaps the veterans also. The latest collection designed by Stella McCartney reminded me too much of the Céline show from the day before. Pure coincidence? Absolutely. A minimalist trend emerged in Paris during the fashion week. And my three designers of the day are the greatest examples. In general, I love minimalism and it always remind me how much Helmut Lang has led this fashion movement. Usually clean, straightforward, simple, casual, and easy to wear to make every women look great. Sometimes the designer’s vision of minimalist can add fantastic twists like Stella McCartney who usually plays in a more eccentric and fun-to-wear court. Her collection was definitely focused on the office wear with strong feminine business attire that would keep the businesswoman chic and elegant. But it also appeals for more casual occasions with some fun patterns, catchy colors and prints. Otherwise, I liked the cut-outs covered with transparent fabrics and the “defile” of legs. The skirts were often short along with high heels, the models were dressed to kill.

Photos via Style.com