DSquared²

Let’s start the last day of Milan’s Menswear Fashion Show with mixed feelings on this show. It has been bloody hell on DSquared² Fall collection, Tarantino would love the drama into it, but seeing guys coming out of a Canadian nightclub after a bar brawl, how is that supposed to translate. And what’s the deal with Bill Kaulitz opening the show in an gender confusing look that does not even fit in the collection? Was it an attempt to hide a collection that almost looks like the 2009 season with some make-up stunts? To give the twin designers the benefit of the doubt, the collection was definitely different from what has been done the past few days. No preppy lumberjack look, DSquared² is being DSquared²: slouchy, skinny, punky with white tees, jeans, leather black boots and cool studded leather belts. My highlight is the last look: interesting short drop-crotch pant I have to admit.

Iceberg

Like every season, Iceberg sets immediately the chaos with a low-key collection mixing stylish outfits with deconstructed items, mix-matching motifs and a rainbow of colors. The collection would make Gavroche from “Les Misérables” look fashionable. Definitely inspired from the industrial 19th century, Silvio and Giuliana Gerani are revisiting the populist book from Victor Hugo with an elitist fashion twist.

Z Zegna

When you think Zegna, we don’t expect Alessandro Sartori to come up with a collection to different from what we are used to. Wearable and chic Italian-tailored slim suits, coats and turtlenecks in grey and black. Zegna is known for its conservatism but when looking Zegna’s sister brand Z Zegna collection, I was surprisingly, shockingly, pleased to see the collection was rather innovative with some edginess. This Fall collection was definitely flying away from the label’s comfort zone. Seams on the loose, inside-out-looking vests, innovative leather work and a bit of refreshing colors. Great outfits to look chic and comfortable!

Discover the backstages of the show on their website.