There is always something about Milan’s Fashion Week, you would always expect the extravagance and the provocation. This season most designers took a more modest… conservative direction probably due to the consumers’ expectations but very feminine collections. Lot of see-through and light fabrics, pastel colors and elegant shapes.

Dolce & Gabbana was a revival of the cafe-curtain laces, sexy corsets, fine tailoring and silk floral-printed chintzes that were first seen in the 90’s. For Spring 2010’s collection, there was an American Latin vibe with silk fringes and spiffy suits reminding me of a tango or flamenco dance. A lot masculine and feminine contrasts with smart suits or feminine sexy dresses – very Salma Hayek-ish. I like the the swimsuit finale led by Natasha Poly, all the models were walking down the catwalk to please the audience with full-on animal prints.

The boudoir collection designed Karl Lagerfeld for Fendi was all about weigh-less fabrics, cream silk suits, tulle and a twist of Parisian triangle bra. The mood was soft with pastel colored chiffon, some silk-wrapped pieces and see-through blouses. The collection is gorgeous but nothing really stood out except perhaps the heels with wrapping around the ankles and the perspex small bag.

Finally the collection I’ve been waiting, a Spring line that is sexy, colorful, feminine and full-on surprises. Probably the best collection yet, Versace’s theme was so Donatella. Highly inspired by Tim Burton’s Alice in Wonderland, this revival of the 90’s super skinny ultra-short skirts, vivid colors and geometric shapes is marvelous. The Spring 2010 collection is classy and all-about the slim silhouette and legs. A powerful reverence to glitters and geometric prints including perforated and studded leather. I love the pink chiffon gown, perfect for a summer at St-Tropez. Only sad not is how the shoes seemed not wearable on the runway.

For many years, the world of Fashion has been stuck in a constant process that delivers new techniques and new fabrics every 6 months. Designers and consumers are addicted to get the latest in clothing to be different, be unique but sometimes lose focus on real fashion and individual creativity. I have to admit that myself I’m part of this huge machine that sticks us in a permanent search for innovation. But when I have discovered Chloé comme Parris’ collection, it brought me back to the essence of fashion – in three words: “simplicity, natural, beauty”.

Chloé, 21, and Parris, 19, are sisters and Toronto-based designers of their own brand Chloé comme Parris, an eco-conscious line inspired by natural and primitive aesthetics using only organic materials. Their interest is not only to make organic clothes but to design unique, modern and elegant items that are wearable without effort and fashion trends constraints. Their natural instinct to choose the perfect fabrics and materials translate in this beautiful line with stunning oversized plumage earrings, Native Americans-inspired alpaca dress with fringes at the sleeves, dyed sleeveless top with multi-colored stripes and many more unique pieces.

I had the chance to get in touch with the lovely Chloé and Parris who were really busy but graciously accepted to answer a short and exciting interview. Stay tuned!

For Numero Homme, Camilla Akrans attempted to revive the iconic James Dean in a sensual editorial staring model Mathias Lauridsen. Truly the perfect fit for this role, as every shot were so likely similar to James Dean famous photos.

London Fashion Week is always considered as the underdog compared to cities like NYC, Paris or Milan. But London has many ingredients that can offer what other cities don’t have: eccentricity. This week, London came with a bang with celebrity-packed Burberry Prorsum’s show and an electric moment at Basso & Brooke’s catwalk. But not only, later I’ll make a coverage of Matthew Williamson and Jonathan Saunders, two highly coveted designers of this week’s Fashion Shows.

Christopher Bailey, Burberry Prorsum’s creative director, came to London with a fascinating collection that modernized and gave tribute to Burberry’s iconic trenchcoat. Talking about it, the trench has been constructed in so many unbelievable different ways. Celebrities like Emma Watson, Mary Kate Olsen, Dev Patel and Freida Pinto, Liv Tyler and Victoria Beckham may all agree the details in the collection could just bring admiration. I love the series of chiffon dresses and how the techniques that lead to the extended shoulders. The line came in pastel green, blue, pink and gold to soften the image.

Basso & Brooke are the specialists of print and once again their collection if bold, electric and colorful like a Jeff Koons’ sculpture. The line is quite eccentric and dramatic with striking colors and geometric shapes everywhere. I like how the dresses look fluid and how their curves flatter the silhouette. On the other side, the experimentation with jackets was not at its best.

A little concentrate of street styles shot by famous bloggers/photographers during the London Fashion Week. That slim and studded black top absolutely stunned me, the little pink dress is really cute, while we have a good example of how to use the new color trend of next Spring you can see how Londonian women can look fashionable with checked boyfriend jacket and oversized denim. Bonne nuit!

Jak & Jil

Jak & Jil

The Sartorialist

The Sartorialist

Eli Tahari

When I first worn sweatpants in society it was in the early 90’s, that was the perfect sporty pant I could wear anywhere in middle-school at the gym or simply at home. It was the most comfortable pants I’ve ever had before until denim became the standard. Spring 2010 will be the year of sweatpants again and not only as pants but also as dress or jacket. Designers like Alexander Wang, DKNY or Elie Tahari bring sweatpants to another level for the stylish people we are and wearable in any occasion.

To finish this NY edition of Spring 2010 Fashion Week, I wanted to say it’s been a very busy and extremely fun week allowing me to make amazing encounters and see great collections. To summarize this Fashion Week in NY, it was a true celebration of tailoring with geometrical or asymmetrical cuts, stripes will be back again next year, floral prints, sweat pants, sapphire was the color that blew my mind, long and voluminous dresses have been quite present all along the week. In general, the collections have been quite conservative except a few extravaganza like Alexander Wang or Proenza Schouler and a few more!

For the Calvin Klein Spring 2010 collection, Francisco Costa practiced minimalism with volume and neutral colors. A voluptuous and youthful line experimenting different fabrics like the cotton voile and nylon coat. The unstructured silk dresses revealed a bit the skin with beauty. A collection that also focused on the volume as the clothes caught air in their back while the models were walking down the runway. The shapes were asymmetrical as most of the collections this season.

Ralph Lauren’s Spring 2010 Fashion show was a tribute America, the one that survived the Great Depression – a story where the line started from rags to luxurious clothes. The show started with models wearing newsboy caps with oversized denims, worker with blue jeans jumpsuit, floral dresses, denim jacket to remind the little girl from the prairie and three pieces suits to represent the 30’s. Then I liked the cocktail jeans embellished with beads giving it a pinch of glamour to the collection.

We figured since Day 1 that Spring 2010 will be the year of prints and the Proenza Schouler Spring 2010 collection makes a younger and fresher emphasize with fantastic acid animal prints adorned on tank and shirt-dresses. By mixing track suits and shirt-dresses with tailored jackets, Lazaro Hernandez and his partner, Jack McCollough managed to design a nonchalant and effortless look with a sporty-chic items. The sequin turquoise tie-dye dress is fantastic!

After the very polished and feminine Day 4, on Day 5 we are brought to a totally different fashion universe where fabrics and inspiration are taken right from the streets with a lot inspiration from the past and the future.

Kate and Laura Mulleavy have created their own world at their Spring 2010 Fashion show. “Laura and I built this collection around the idea of a girl that spontaneously combusts and turns into a vulture,” explained Kate. “This was a transformation and we burned a lot of the collection, while the L.A. fires were happening at the same time.” It’s a baroque world mixed with tribal and goth cultures and an ongoing interest with futurism. Rodarte’s collection looked completely destroyed – aged, painted, burned, shredded etc. The models also had their arms painted with makeup to appear fit in the atmosphere and their hair wrapped in wool. The show looked spectacular after looking at the video, the decor had a war-torn landscape and models were walking through that radioactive green smoke.

For G-Star Raw’s Spring 2010 collection, Pierre Morisset again elaborates a fashion entertainment at the Hammerstein Ballroom with a parterre of celebrities like Lindsay Lohan, Taylor Momsen, Jared Leto, etc. G-Star’s collection is experiments a of blend of urban style and classic tailoring inspired from the 50’s in which denim plays a major role as always by G-Star. We can see sharp jackets in navy and white, and detachable coat tails. I liked the sexy tuxedo white jumpsuit with revealing slits cut up each side.

Day 5 was a boring day in my opinion, at the exception of the big show performed by Marc Jacobs. Everyone from Anna Wintour to Carine Roitfeld, and Lady Gaga to Madonna was attending his fashion show and no one was disappointed.

For his Spring 2010 collection, Marc Jacobs beats the entire, now “conventional”, 80’s trend. Bye bye black, shoulder-pads and studs and hello to Japan. His line took the direction of Japan with Geisha-inspired makeup, ruffles and lots of inspiration from fellow Japanese designers like Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanabe. I like the anti-conformism of the outfits with exotic and the eccentricity. Ruffles and pearls, bold lame dresses and sequin, raincoat belted high above the waist and military jackets are all just so brilliantly designed.

While Marc Jacobs was going against the 80’s trend, Jill Stuart went directly in the core of it. Sexy and daring are the two words that come to my mind. Tight dresses, metal mesh, studded, over the top shoulder-pads and Roman-inspired jerseys. A collection of very eclectic items that will attract the attention in the streets.